Kudos to my sister Ellyn for coming up with the title. Eat a slice of pumpkin pie for breakfast for me, dear. If I could have one type of food to appear before me, it would be pumpkin pie from a can. Oh, and eggnog.
Once again, my excuse for being late is completely valid because I was in Dengfeng, doing stuff instead of writing about doing stuff. I'm glad I went because the week itself was pretty boring. I had, like, no energy. Oh! And I suddenly decided that I would try to do Nanowrimo (National Novel Writing Month). For those of you who don't know, it's basically a challenge where you write 50,000 words of a novel in one month. It's sort of crazy. www.nanowrimo.org for more info. I had written about 5,000 words at the beginning of the month, and then kind of dropped it and then decided last week that I would try to write 5,000 words every day in order to finish it. About Thursday I dropped it again. Maybe next year?
So, mad typing was taking up a lot of my breaks, and still would be if I wasn't trying to concentrate on grading. Yep, grading is tomorrow! I'll be doing my 24-step Tai Chi and my Staff Form, which I finished on Friday. That one kind of worries me because I haven't had a whole lot of time to prepare for it with my weekend trip to Dengfeng. Tai Chi doesn't worry me at all, though. I've been doing it for ages and it's starting to feel like the only Kung Fu style that I'm actually sort of good at. :/
Before I get into my weekend trip, I've got some roommate switching going on! I really thought that no more people would be coming (what with winter shoving its way through our sliding doors), but in the past week two more girls and a boy have arrived. Monday brought the first one, and then my first roommate Arianne went with us to Dengfeng and then left for Beijing, so her departure made room for another new girl, which I found out at 5:00 in the morning on Monday when we arrived. They're both lovely, though not exactly talkative. One is from Hungary, which makes it a little bit difficult, though she speaks basically communicable English. Remember how I thought I would be the only girl in my class forever? Not anymore! Kind of bad timing, that. I had finally gotten used to it. But now I have a partner for (let's see if I can spell this right) "Qinan", which is a class that we didn't do for the first two months. I guess we're now doing it instead of Sanda takedowns on Tuesday afternoons sometimes. It's a class where you learn how to twist people's wrists into uncomfortable positions, basically. It's extra uncomfortable when Sifu decides to demonstrate on you.
Anyway, flashback to Friday evening.
Sifu told us to meet him in the office at 9:45 so that we could take the taxis at 10:00 to get to the station in plenty of time for the 11:49 train going from Yangzhou Station to Zhengzhou Station. As you may notice, neither of those stations are "Qufu" or "Dengfeng" anything. The Yangzhou Station is the one for the slow (or 'regular') trains. It's the one you would go to if you wanted to take eight hours to get to Beijing instead of 2-3. I'd been there once before, when we went to Qingdao. It's considerably less clean than the shiny Qufu East Station for the speed train.
Anyway, Sifu talked us through our weekend tour schedule and it ended up taking until 10:30, so all 17 of us (including Sifu) jogged out to the taxis and told them to go fast. So of course all of the taxis decided to develop minor engine problems and crawled to the station. Being American, I'm not exactly sure how fast 40 km/h is, but it nearly wasn't fast enough. And the driver had the gall to follow his meter for the time and definitely overcharged us.
But anyway, we did make it on time and all piled onto the sleeper train. I've decided that I don't like doing that. Do all men snore, or is it just middle-aged Chinese men? But I sort of like the bunks themselves. They're at least as comfortable as the beds we have at the school.
When you ride on a sleeper train, a ticket guy comes around at the beginning and exchanges your ticket for a little card, which you mustn't lose. Then when your stop is coming up, he comes and wakes you about half an hour beforehand and changes your ticket back. Our train left around midnight and got into Zhengzhou at about 6:00 Saturday morning.
Oh, this brings me to Saturday. So, we all got off the train and headed over to McDonalds for some breakfast. Man, what a dirty city. Zhengzhou looks all modern and nice, but we were approached by so many beggars, and it all smelled terrible. McDonalds took a bit long because so many people had to order and Chinese people kept butting in line because no one in China actually knows how a line functions. I was sitting at one of those little two-person tables with Arianne, but at one point she went to the bathroom, and a homeless guy with bloodshot eyes actually came up to our table and started looking through her food for the sugar packets and stuff. I kind of froze for a second because it was so foreign to me, but then shooed him away. Scary.
Well, after breakfast we headed over to the Zhengzhou bus station to book some tickets to Dengfeng. It wasn't too far away. At that point, Sifu lined us all up and gave us all numbers to count off during the next few days so we could make sure everyone was together. I was Five. *high fives Peter Davison*
The bus ride was about an hour and 45 minutes. They showed some Chinese movies during the ride which looked pretty weird (I actually understood a lot of the first one because people kept shouting "WEI SHEN ME", meaning "WHY?"), and were definitely turned up too loud. I tried to listen to Mika for a while to cover the sound, but I had to give up after a few songs.
But we got to Dengfeng with our eardrums completely intact and safe, though not for long. Just as I was getting off the bus we were suddenly surrounded by like a dozen monks all holding long-handled swords and Sifu had to fight them off using the double chain whips he'd brought with him for the occasion.
Wait.
Isn't that what happened in that Jet Li movie?*
We didn't actually get attacked by a bunch of Shaolin monks, although we met quite a few. We all got into some cars and got to the temple, but in order to get through a checkpoint we had to have a monk in each car, so Wei Sifu's brother and another guy were waiting for us. Young Sifu totally counted as a car monk. How cool is that?
As we were driving through Dengfeng, we passed a lot of kung fu schools, with hundreds of Chinese guys in matching outfits practicing jumps and rolls or standing in straight rows punching and kicking. I had looked at a school before I came to this one, and I think that's basically what it would have been like. 30,000 Chinese dudes and, like, 3 foreigners. We also saw some people practicing Jumps and Rolls, and there were plenty of 12-year-old kids doing no-handed cartwheels and backflips and stuff. No big deal. When we got to the temple we left our bags in the cars so they could take them to the hostel for us and went in. Oh! One thing I forgot to say earlier is that we all paid 400 yuan to pay for the entrance, hostel, lunch, and any other fees that might happen (excluding cars). So we walked in without showing a ticket or anything. I think the entrance is usually 100 or 150 or something.
If you ever go to the Shaolin Temple, the way to do it is tag along with a monk. Sifu got us in to have lunch with the monks! It wasn't bad at all. They had two dishes. One was a green bean and tofu thing that was actually quite good. I think usually you would have it with rice or a steamed bun, but they ran out of buns right before they got to me, so I didn't get one. The other dish was a Chinese tasteless porridge. It literally had absolutely no taste whatever, so it didn't taste bad. It didn't taste like anything. I keep trying to fathom how they did that. It was filling, though. The kid who was serving everyone spilled some of mine, so he gave me extra. Lucky me? When we walked in for the meal, the monks were chanting something, and one guy was really getting into it. I think it was some sort of prayer chant. Sifu told us to stay silent during the meal, but that didn't stop us from sometimes exchanging looks or whispering a little bit. I think we were all a little bit intimidated by it, because none of us got a picture of the dining hall. It was in one of those buildings at a Buddhist temple that you wonder what's inside and the plaque tells you it was for meetings or something. It was pretty spacious and very cold, with a whole lot of wooden benches and thin wooden tables. There were two sides that faced the middle, where a gold Buddha statue sat. At the back was I guess where they got the food.
When we walked out, we didn't stick around the temple and instead headed over to the hostel that Sifu had arranged for us to stay in. It was in a funny little village that had Hutong-type architecture, although taller. It was just up an uphill road from the front of the temple. Sifu said that his Sifu used to make them do the little frog hop thing all the way up the hill. That guy goes so easy on us. The village had some small convenience stores, one of which sold the training shoes that we wear. Later I looked around and realized that we totally wear the same sort of shoes that the monks wear for training. How legit is that? I bought a white pair since our school only sells black and was feeling all cool and special, and then everyone else bought a white pair, too. I guess I won't be so special when I wear them.
The reason we were hanging around going to the convenience store was that Sifu told us to just stay at the hostel and rest until 2:00 when he would come to pick us up. When he did so, he brought us back to the temple and then ran off to change into his monk's clothes. During the winter, the monks wear a long grey overcoat that looks pretty warm. I sort of wish I had bought one, but the practical side of me wouldn't let me do so because I wouldn't have the gumption to actually wear it. When he came back in his monk outfit he took us to the Kung Fu Show, which is a must-see if you visit the Shaolin Temple. I mean, I would've been okay with not seeing it because I see that sort of stuff all the time, but they do some pretty hardcore things. The forms are always awesome to watch, and several guys did Hard Qi Gong (a type of meditation that concentrates your chi) and then broke metal over their heads or threw darts through glass. There were also some kids doing crazy flexible stuff. We have pictures.
Then Sifu showed us around the temple. We got to one of the shrine building things, and most people in our group went in, but I suddenly realized that they might be doing prayers or something which I didn't want to do, so I stuck around outside for a little while. A big group of Chinese people (they seemed like a family) sort of spotted me, I guess, because two of the women asked if they could take a picture with me, and I was like "…okay, sure" and suddenly a huge group of them surrounded me to pose. They spotted Barney next and swarmed him to take a photo. I felt both weirded out and flattered. That would never happen in America unless you saw a celebrity. Presently my group came out of the little shrine building thing, and we went to the next one. This one was bigger, and had murals on it of… something. The Thirteen Monks Who Saved The Tang Emperor?** The murals reminded me of the Western Air Temple (see Avatar: The Last Airbender, Season 3). But the cool part about that was there were grooves or dips in the ground where the stones had been pressed down in a weird way, just about long enough for a horse stance. It was where, for centuries, monks had stood in the same place and practiced, jumping into different stances and stomping and kicking and stuff. Sifu showed us where he usually stood to do it. Like, whoa.
The rest of the temple was basically like any other Buddhist temple. Plenty of cool old buildings, a few shops, and stands outside. There was also a room with some really shiny and pretty weapons on display. It was sort of like the weapons rack we have in the training hall, but there was no staff with a birdcage on top and none of them were rusty. I got a little brown purse that says "Shaolin Temple" on it. The stands outside sold jewelry and little monk figurines and some weapons, so when we came back the next day some of the guys bought, like, throwing knives and a broadsword. We then walked around the grounds a bit with both Sifu and one of his monk friends, and Sifu would point out places and be like, "that's where we did conditioning", or "that's where my Sifu would make us do a horse stance for two hours if we slacked off". One famous spot was the Pagoda Forest, which does have some trees but is mostly Pagodas built over graves of past Abbots. Those were pretty cool to see. One of the newest pagodas had things engraved on it that the Abbot had seen during his life, and there was an airplane and a laptop and what looked like a big ship. The Pagoda Forest also had a few stands, and I bought some pretty little marble eggs for 5 kuai each.
Then we went back to the hostel, ate at a restaurant in the little village, hung out a bit, and went to sleep. Sifu went back to the temple before dinner to chill with his friends and sleep there.
I think the most surreal part of the day was looking around and realizing that the guy who was teaching me Kung Fu on a daily basis had actually grown up in that place. It seemed like a completely different world that was sitting just down the road from a gas station. I think I understand the Sifus a little better now, knowing where they came from and what their young life was like.
Anyway, Sunday morning we climbed the nearby mountain! (cue: Climb Every Mountain (Reprise)). Young Sifu said that he would meet us all at the hostel at 8:00, but 8:00 came and went without a sign of him. At around 8:30 he finally called and told us that his friend would take us up the mountain, so we would need to meet him at the temple. But not letting that deter us, we set off, led by a Shaolin monk who only knew four words of English: "Let's go" and "Follow me", which I suspect Young Sifu taught him that morning. Five of us stayed behind at the hostel due to sore knees and such things.
Although the hike was steep and the stairs were numerous, it didn't take more than maybe two hours to go up and down. It was a nice view, too, though a clearer day would have improved it (cue: That's a Pretty Rad Wall! (Reprise)). At the top was the white statue of a huge guy that was sitting in a meditating pose like Buddha, but he had a beard. He had some sort of gold plating shaped like flames framing him, and faced East. Arianne nicknamed him Sunshine Man. Although obviously a sacred place, a bunch of people had etched their names into the back of his pedestal. Real mature, guys. Right next to Sunshine Man was a little dwelling, and two people in monk robes were doing something-- it looked like they were cooking breakfast for themselves, maybe. They both had shaved heads and glasses, and it wasn't until they spoke that I realized they were women. One had twelve dots on the top of her head, sort of like Krilin from Dragonball Z, except that her dots weren't drawn there with Sharpie. According to the aforementioned Jet Li movie, they actually burn those onto your head when you become a full-fledged monk.
We sat in front of Sunshine Man for a little while, took some pictures, and then headed back down when a group of Chinese people arrived with speakers blasting Chinese pop music. Not far from the top is a small cave that makes the mountain famous. It's where someone meditated for 9 years (we deduced that his wife had to climb the mountain every day to bring him food), and then came up with some Buddhist theories or something. Maybe I should've paid more attention to the plaque. But there was a statue inside the tiny cave, and some ginormous incense sticks burning outside.
We went back to the Temple to drop our new monk friend off, hung around the stands for a bit, and then went back to the hostel. Because Sifu hadn't showed up for the mountain, we weren't sure when we would next see him. Due to some miscommunication, the five people who stayed behind for the mountain climbing went into town to start shopping and eat lunch, but then Sifu came back and we all wanted to go into town, and then we couldn't until the hostel had all the keys back and the people in town had two of them… and in the end our shopping time in the afternoon was cut to two and a half hours instead of the six or so we had wished for.
Dude. Dengfeng is THE PLACE to shop for weapons. We went along a street full of weapons stores. Most of a store would be lined up with different types of swords or spears, and have display cases with fans, throwing knives, throwing stars, whips… you name it. One we went into also had a whole lot of staffs, and over half of us ended up carrying a new staff back to the school. I sort of wish I had gotten one, but with my sword, backpack, and bag 'o' clothes I wouldn't have had enough hands. Yep, I bought a pretty nice straight sword to go with my Wudan Sword Form. I also knew I wanted pants and a tai chi outfit like the one Wu Sifu always wears, and I managed to get both. I totally should've gotten more special Shaolin pants (I got two black and two grey), but I had waited until the end to get them and so we were in a bit of a hurry to get into the cars and get to the bus station. I also got a pair of shoes.
Anyway, we then took the cars to the bus station which was a drive of, like, two minutes. Sifu didn't end up meeting up with us. He met us in Zhengzhou and I'm not positive on how he got there. Teleportation? We got the 6:30 bus, and I must've dozed off because suddenly the ride was over and it had felt a lot shorter than the one from Zhengzhou to Dengfeng.
Then we met up with Young Sifu, Wei Sifu, and Shu-Shu (Barney: where are they? Me: they're the three Chinese guys standing over there. Barney: that doesn't tell me anything.). Wei Sifu and Shu-Shu had also gone to Dengfeng, but we didn't see a lot of them, so I forgot to mention it. There was a McDonalds and KFC right next to us, and we all had just enough time to grab ourselves a super healthy dinner. Our train was at 9:30, but Arianne's was at 9:24, so she went first and we all hugged her goodbye. And so departed my first 'college' roommate.
We then all got on the train. Supposedly we would all have top bunks, but then my ticket ended up being a middle one, again. I've been wanting to try a top bunk to see if it's any quieter or darker. But the middle one is kind of nice because then you can stare out the window at the darkness if you're too tired to sleep. I did sleep a few hours, but then kept waking up with a stuffy nose or to the sound of every single Chinese man around me performing a snoring quartet.
We arrived, counted off our numbers for officially the last time (minus Arianne), and Sifu got us a deal for 50 yuan a taxi to get back to the school, where we arrived at around 5 in the morning.
And so ended our trip to Dengfeng.
*Here I'm referring to "Shaolin Temple" with Jet Li. I watched it last night, but I totally should've watched it before I went to the temple. I kept going "Hey! I've been there!". Apparently there's a new "Shaolin Temple" movie and we may or may not have seen one of the monks who was in it. But I haven't actually seen that one, so I don't know.
**Again, I'm referring to "Shaolin Temple" with Jet Li. It's based on the legend "The Thirteen Monks Who Saved The Tang Emperor", which according to the movie was a mural on one of the walls in one of the buildings in the Shaolin Temple.
Well, I believe that's all I had to say. Oh, Thursday was Thanksgiving, but I didn't do anything except tell everyone at the table I was sitting at that they needed to say something they were thankful for. Have I already mentioned that I could go for some pumpkin pie?
So far it's turning out to be a rainy week. But you'll hear more about what I did this week on the next installment of
SOMEWHAT SHAOLIN
PS. I've decided that the "Shaolin Temple" theme (Shaolin, Shaolin) is also the theme for this blog.
PPS. I enjoy questions.